1st time stripping & rebuilding 1600 engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by VW-Pete, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. I'm slowly getting there. all exhaust valves very wobbly in the guides i think the ends of the valves had stretched as i needed to sand paper them down in order to pull them through the guides. you can see the amount of oil that was finding its way through.

    I'm planning to replace all the valve guides not sure if you have done this? any advice on what size tap to buy? they are 8mm internal diameter.

    second question can you tell me what the little black ring thing is called one of them has broken not sure if they are needed as no were seems to sell them. They were located tight against the valve guide. i cant see what they would do as they would surly move up and down with the valve.

    my plan is to replace all valve guides and all valves with IVAM parts from VWH i will re-use everything else as quality wise i'm not sure what aftermarket parts would be like.

    any other advice you have would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. Patrick Nguyen and mgbman like this.
  3. Hi all another update and a few questions if anyone can help.

    I run a tap through the valve guides I used 9mm only to find 9mm bolts don't seem to exist. So I took a 9mm die to a 10mm bolt and made my own leaving enough of the 10mm bolt thread to get a nut on. Bit of a bodge but it worked.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Used a nut against a socket to pull out the valve guide.
    Tins painted in engine enamel.
    Exhuast in aluminium heat resistant paint.

    Anyone got any advice for putting new guides in?

    I'm thinking of putting new 1641 pistons and barrels in (currently got 1600). Would I need to measure deck height? Is there an easy way of doing this without buying a load of special tools that I'm only going to use once?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
  5. This is what I used for deck height..worked just fine.
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  6. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Theres a driving tool you can buy with an 8mm pin and a step in it so you dont flatten the valve guide too much .. best off is to press them in as hitting it with a hammer needs a lot of whacking, running the risk of mis-hitting the tool and damaging the heads.

    Ask somebody like e.g. Woodmill Engineering in Southampton how much they would charge as they will have the tools to do the job. Its who Scott at SGS Aircooled used to take his notchback VW race engine parts to ...

    If the valve tips needed sanding they were probably stainless valves, as they arent as hard.
    The racers would fit hardened "lash caps" to the valve tips using solid rocker shaft assemblies (no wavy springs!) correctly shimmed side to side and custom length pushrods and more shims under the rocker arm mounting blocks...lots of faff. Just buy new valves every 30-40k miles. Or like me keep them going until they crack and the valve head falls off at about 50k miles...
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
    VW-Pete likes this.
  7. Guides: heads in the oven, guides in the fridge. Although probably better to find someone with better kit to press them in. Belting them in with a hammer might mean you have to ream them afterwards, as the ID may be distorted.

    The weird collars above are valve stem "seals". You can live without them - VW deleted them as they didn't do much (apart from snap in half).

    Yes, measure your deck height. Easy enough to do with a steel rule across the top of (clamped down) cylinders. Measure the gap with feeler gauges. Also worth cc-ing the cylinder heads (measuring combustion chamber volumes), and feeding the whole lot into one of the compression ratio calculators online. Enables you to calculate any shimming required under the cylinders, otherwise you may end up with a weird CR.
     
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  8. Thanks for the reply. I believe my head are Autolinea looking at the G01 markings rather than VW logo. would you replace all valves, springs, retainers etc with new? my problem is i don't know if new parts will have the same quality of what is currently in there. whatever happens i will replace the exhaust valves and valve guides as these need to be replaced. As for everything else i'm thinking if it aint broke...

    Any thoughts?
     
  9. Leave the springs. Change the exhaust valves if you feel like it. Check the inlets. While the springs are off, lap the valves in or (better still) have a three-angle valve job done on them.
     
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  10. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The heads I bought new off VWH in a VW logoed box in 2010 were Autolinea.

    If they are not horribly cracked, use them.
     
    VW-Pete likes this.
  11. Thanks for the reply. I managed to get all the exhaust guides out over the weekend I manged to get 1 of the inlet guides out but it was nearly impossible so i have left the rest as the inlet valves are a nice tight fit already. I had to resort to this method

    the guides are all marked with 0,000 im guessing they are standard size? (not oversized) when i measure them they all come up as 12.16mm OD. i'm not sure if the OD could get distorted when removing the guides?

    an aftermarket guide in standard size is 12mm i can then go to an oversized of 12.14 or 12.2 any advice on what to buy?

    Thanks Pete.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018
  12. Bentley (or @Bigherb ) might have info on oversized guides. As they're a press/interference fit, you'd expect the OD to be fractionally bigger (couple of thou?) than the hole in the head.
     
  13. The oversize is determined by the amount of pressure needed to press the guide in, it should be between 1-2 tons, under one ton you need the next size up, or over two tons the guide is too big.
     
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  14. finally had some spare time so went back to engine building. No machine shop would get back to me so i brought a valve guide drift tool. heated the head locally to the valve using an electric heat gun and knocked the valve guides in using a hammer. found that you have about 2 seconds to get them in before the hole starts to close up.

    Lapped in new SS exhaust valves and re-used the old inlet valves again lapped in.

    Managed to fully rebuild one head.

    Questions if any one can help.

    is there an easy way of holding the collets in place while i let off the tension in the valve spring? i am finding this almost impossible

    Iv lost one collet i can only find empi ones for sale. any advice on where to got some VW ones?

    Some online videos show hitting the newly assembled valves springs with a hammer to check that everything is seated and aligned correctly i guess its better something undoes now that when you turn the key for the first time. Would you say this is good or bad practice? any other bits of advice?

    Still got to CC the head and work out compression ration on new barrels and pistons. hopefully i can start getting it all back together now.

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    Lasty likes this.
  15. Stick a small dob of grease on the collets to glue them in place while you release the spring.
     
    mikedjames, VW-Pete and 1973daisey like this.
  16. Or you could do what @1973daisey did at techenders and use a lb of butter lol
     
  17. U gotta use what u got but on my type 4 I just built I used grease


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  18. If you need some vw collets give me a shout I am sure I have loads somewhere..
     
  19. Was thinking that this morning I will give it a go, thanks
     
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  20. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    I definitely have collets in my box of parts.
     

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