1st time stripping & rebuilding 1600 engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by VW-Pete, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Hi all, any general advice would be really appreciated iv only ever changed oil and spark plugs before so this is quite a jump for me. i'm rebuilding because of a little smoke on occasional start ups. she was also using more oil than petrol this was clearly some poor gaskets especially the rocker covers.

    I have removed all the tin were and i'm just about undo the head and then the barrels & pistons. is there any thing i should be looking for measuring etc? before going any further?

    would you recommend that i split the case? i wasn't planning on it as the Haynes Manuel makes this out to be complex to rebuild. no end float drives fine with no knocking.

    do i need a new oil cooler? mine has a few bent fins as you can see in the photo

    how do i remove the bottom tin shown in photo. i'm i OK to remove the bottom pulley? thought best to ask as i don't want to mess with the crank.

    don't know the exact mileage as she had a recon engine fitted in 88 and current millage reads 114k that mileage could be spread over 2 engines.

    Thanks Pete.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. VW-Pete likes this.
  3. It does look a bit oily around your bottom pulley. I suggest you remove the engine. Much easier and clearer to work on and a good time to check the clutch.
    Tom Watson's book is a must buy!.
     
  4. That bottom tin. Can not be removed until the pulley has been. Removing that is not problem. Use a 3 leg puller. Easier engine out. Your oil cooler looks ok.
     
    VW-Pete likes this.
  5. Smoke on startup is often valve guide wear.

    Dont split the case unless you have low oil pressure and excessive end float.

    Do a compression test to see if cylinders/valves are worn. Ideally you do a leakdown test with compressed air in the spark plug hole and the engine locked at TDC for the cylinder you are checking.
    It tells you piston rings or valves or other leak.

    For oil leaks: Most likely you need a new crank seal and your oil strainer plate sealed properly with new gaskets and olive nuts.

    Watch youtube : VWdarrin, mustie1, theezgz all do engine rebuilding.

    Go slow, ask questions. Dont rip it all apart in a hurry and then be bamboozled by a pile of parts.
     
  6. Thanks for the info, engine is already out. all tins, exhaust, manifolds, carb etc removed. just got the heads then B & Ps to come off.

    So removing that bottom pulley will not mess with the end float or alignment of the crank?
     
  7. .

    I will get some photos of the heads and B&P once they are off.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2018
  8. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

    No. It can only go on in one position
     
    VW-Pete likes this.
  9. When you take the heads off - assuming you intend to re-use the pushrods - make a note of where they went - #1Exhaust; #1Inlet; etc, so they go back where they came from.
    Likewise for the cam-followers, should you end up splitting the case, but want to re-use the cam/followers.
    If you plan to split the case, undo the flywheel gland nut before you remove the heads and Bs & Ps...more to hold onto!! A flywheel locking tool is essential - a Torque Meister will make it a LOT easier!!
    An engine stand is useful, but not essential.
    If yo replace the oil pump, get the right one for the cam...you can see the cam rivets/bolt through the hole where the pump fits.. its a different pump depending on if to see 3 or 4 rivets/bolts.
    If you replace the pistons - the arrow stamped on the to of each piston must point towards the flywheel on all pistons. If there is no arrow, there will be a small 'lump' cast into the inside of the pistons...this goes towards the flywheel.

    good luck.. have fun!
     
    VW-Pete and Poptop2 like this.
  10. Don't split the case if you really don't need to.

    There aren't really any other important gaskets in the engine that need replacement. If you're burning oil, likely that a new set of barrels and pistons will do (or even new sets of rings, but they may not match the existing barrels). If the bores are worn, may be that the crankcase is pumping up and forcing a bit of oil out behind the pulley. Need to take the pulley off to remove the tin behind it, but little point as there's no seal at the pulley end (just an oil slinger inside the case).

    Take the heads off and whip the barrels off. Bomp them gently from side to side with a rubber mallet to loosen them. You'll need a ring compressor (simple strip of metal) to get new barrels on, also a medium range (say up to 45 lb/ft) torque wrench to tighten the heads down. If you're very keen, you could take the valves out (need a spring compressor), replace the exhaust valves and lap them all in.

    Oil cooler looks ok. Straighten the bent fins with a slim pair of pliers. Give the cooler passages a good wash out to remove years of muck.

    Get an Elring gasket set from GSF to put it all back together.

    All pretty straightforward once you get into the swing of it just follow your nose :thumbsup:

    As above, absolutely get a copy of the red Tom Wilson book. A bit 1970s (some quite scary hairstyles and tight shorts), but good if you're dismantling the engine.

    Go for it!
     
    F_Pantos and VW-Pete like this.
  11. I have just joined the club. A whirring noise ,loss of power, a puff of smoke and yellow taxi time. Even still have oil. But I do have little bits of engine case to look at while I am waiting.
    2018-09-07 08.10.36.jpg

    Off to VWH tomorrow with a credit card and a sinking knowledge of a four figure bill for doing it in a hurry...
     
  12. Oops!
     
  13. Good luck hope its not too expensive.
     
  14. bernjb56

    bernjb56 Moderator

    Are you sure that’s not gold :thinking:
     
    Sick Boy likes this.
  15. Oh no!
     

  16. Oh dear bad luck, at least your wheel nuts were still on !!
     
    Sick Boy likes this.
  17. Ouch fingers crossed its not terminal
     
  18. DSC_1426.JPG DSC_1427.JPG

    Photos of the heads. Anything to be concerned about? No cracks and you can still see machining marks on the flat surface. They are not full of oil that's degreaser.
     
  19. No. 3 cylinder looks a little burned compared to the others maybe 50% more carbon / burn marks on the side compared to the others. All 4 sets of piston rings move freely and look to have the same gap. When I changed spark plugs no. 3 had oil on it. One of the reasons for stripping the engine. DSC_1421.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  20. DSC_1430.JPG
    No. 3 cylinder. The long bolt does not screw directly into the block instead a new thread has been cut deeper into the block. at the head the bolt had a couple of thick washers to take up the slack. Have I found my problem? Any advice on how to sort it?
     

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