1978 Fuel Injection 2litre recently rebuilt engine problems on starting

Just had my engine rebuilt for the second time in a year by a company in the UK which was recommended but subsequently have now found out that they are not very good at it at all.

The engine has now been put in by my local mechanic and when he starts it, it runs for about 20seconds and then just cuts out.

They are completly baffled and any pointers I can give them from the experts on here would be much appreciated.

As mentioned above it is a 2 litre fuel injection. :'(

 

petrol starvation?

 

as you know there is a basic ecu and loads of electric gubbins on a fuel injected engine (i'm running the same) madfrankie on here is havving issues with his also, vinnyboy on here had issues and went over to carbs as did birdy.... it could be anything have you looked on ratwells site for info? need more detail to help, example is it cutting out due to electrical fail pump turning off for example, does it die steadily - fuel starvation etc, or does it just cut out completely? will it instantly refire up? yade yadeya.....

 

Whats the name of the company that did the rebuild?
I've had mine done twice in a year also...

 

Right, I've become a bit of an FI guru over the past few months trying to work out why mine doesn't work...

I've created a thread with all the literature I've found, http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=10062.0. Have a look through there, it will help you.

I'm not going to lie, when the FI system works, it works great but getting to to work can be a real pain. There are so many different potential problems and electrikery to go through, the first link on my how to is probably the best to get you going.

As it starts and then cuts out I'd say that it's getting petrol as otherwise it wouldn't start at all. Same goes for the rest 'starting' parts.

My first guess would be something wrong with either the air regulator or intake sensor or more likely with a rebuild the EGR has leaks in it somewhere so the vacuum isn't being created and it just stalls.

Does it just stop, try to go on but cut out, stumble along and then cough to a stop etc?

 

Thanks so much for all your help so far especially MadFrankie with your sticky. I have forward it all to the Garage where my VW is.

The only thing he can tell me so far is "It fires up as it should then cuts out after 10 seconds or so indicating the cold start works, that is it."

nzskidReturned can't tell you which place rebuilt my engine yet until I have been reimbursed for all my costs involved as it had a year guarantee on the rebuild, after i have obtained my reimbursement then that's a different matter.

 

My guess would be Air Flow Meter / regulator or sensor. The AFM makes sure there is, well, air flow through the system, if it doesn't detect it then it tells the ECU to turn off the power to the fuel pump, so stopping the flow of petrol and stopping the engine...

Having said that the FI system loves to give you one symptom that leads you one way to a solution only to find it was a complete red herring. It's a tease like that!

However, tell them to follow the troubleshooting guide and it will take them through the possible issues step by step.

 

It's a nightmare to diagnose on a forum. As Madfrankie says it will lead you up the garden path to something else. When it works it's brilliant. When it doesn't it has this habit of turning your bus into a caravan.

As they have had the engine out they need to make sure firstly that the connections are tight and that all are we're they should be. And that the wires have not been broken. It's a separate harness to the rest of the bus. Also make sure there is a good earth to the engine.

Best place to start would be to see that the air flow meter flap is freely swinging and in the open position with the engine running. If it shuts it switches off the fuel
pump. If its not opening then there is an air leak. Also do follow the stuff posted in the link. It's all very good. A bit of a read but essential if you're ever to work out the problems.

My own system failed at every turn I made because it was in such a poor star when I got it. Do consider fitting carbs if you have to and then selling the bits. People want those bits. I took no hesitation on ditching mine.

 

I would consider getting some new carbs from Eurocarb, especially if your paying someone else to fix it. I really tryed to keep the FI but it faught back all the way. Now i have more power, reliability and better MPG.

 

... you've got the Volkswagen Troubleshooting Guide for FI haven't you?

Here are the pages that might help:

 

The FI system, when it works, actually gives better mpg than carbs.




When it works...

 

You want to read this post on the samba.com it has loads of information you will need.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482560 sorry if you have seen it before.

"first, YOU MUST RULE OUT ANY AND ALL OTHER POSSIBLE PROBLEMS
such as: vacuum leaks, fuel supply, ignition, electrical, compression, valve adjustment...etc...etc...etc...
just like a carburetor you must make sure every thing else is as it should be; or else you are just chasing your tail."

I garage used (not anymore) altered the spring tension in the air flow meter on my FI to pass the MOT and it hasn't run the same since the actual problem was a vacuum leak. Beware of it!!

 

my guess would be something not connected back to where it should be... I would say the connection on the neg side of the coil that goes back to the double relay (makes the fuel pump run once the engine is running)

the running for 20 secs could be the initial fuel pressure in the fuel rail fading down to zero....

 

After nearly 4 months my van is still in the garage as they have not been able to fix the problem. They have suggested converting my 2 litre fuel injection to twin carbs.

Now I need to know is how much is a kit to do this and is it time consuming.

I need to get this sorted as it has just become a complete nightmare.

 

has the fuel filter been changed? if not change it. there could be a bockage in the fuel line also. the engine will run without the aiflow meter connected try that, also bypass the idle control valve, check the earth connection on both the engine and the double relay

 

I've sent my garage all the links to the external websites that have been posted here, and they are a good garage that deal with classic cars and have a good reputation.
I'm bloody useless with mechanics so I wouldn't know where to start, but reading through other topics on Fuel Injection it seems that FI is good when it's running good but when it starts having problems then it's a Illegitimate child.
I have already spent quite a bit on labour for them to look into it. So was just wondering the £400 you have quoted is that for everything I need to convert to Carbs is there more to add on to this.
Since this has happened to us the wife has now completely gone off the idea of having a VW Camper and wants to sell it after it's running as it is just seems to be a bottomless pit when something goes wrong and I'm tending to agree with her. :'(