i use the same oil that i was putting in before fitting the filter and new cooler, i am also using push on hoses rated to i think 200psi with no clips and just been away for the weekend on some fast roads and some good hills putting everthing under pressure, guess what no leaks...
To stop the filter blowing? No. 15/40 or 20/50. The problem is associated with high pressure/cold oil but putting thin stuff in is not the answer! Some people think they're being clever fitting big pumps or uprated pressure control springs or both. People who really should know better do this including my previous engine builder (the control valve spring). The result is 80-100psi at start up according to my gauge. When I rebuilt it i swapped to a standard control spring and guess what - 42psi the whole time, no more than 50psi at start up whether 20/50 or 15/40. It still ticks over at 15-20psi however hot it gets. Another minus for the uprated spring is that is forces oil to find another path and the only one available is by pushing on the relief spring and sending the oil straight to the bearings without going round the cooler.
Do you think I need to check the spring in mine or maybe just swap it out for a new standard one just to be on the safe side?
I would, though it's hard to tell the difference without one of each in your hand. I was suspicious so ordered a std one to compare then fitted it.
Wow your amazing.... And I guess I'm one if those people trying to be clever! So standard control spring
I spent a good while picking the brains of them what know about this as I always had such ridiculously high pressure on start up. I do like to understand when I do something. I haven't got to the bottom of why such springs are even sold, but it's probably the same as many other parts - it sounds good in your engine spec. The word "uprated" has a certain attraction so if you don't really understand it's natural to go for such things which are often perhaps only a good idea if you want your engine revving above 8,000rpm. Forged pistons, serpentine pulley kits, steel pushrods, dual valve springs... the list of parts that will make zero difference to anything other than your bank balance for a bus engine unless you're building it for the strip is endless.
Just for your info . (if you are interested) JAP J99, and Blackburn Cirrus Minor aircraft engines, both aircooled, would break the oil pump drive shafts if you opened up the throttle before the engine oil was warmed up. In a VW,the pressure relief valve should be able to cope with cold thick oil, but I was taught to take it easy when the engine is cold for the first mile or so. This is just good engineering and driving practice. Tony
