Another update, been really busy at late so been hard to spend time on the van although I have been able to do a couple of hours here and there and I've managed to tie up some loose ends. The keen eyed of you out there would have noticed that the fridge does not fit so I have made a cover at it looks pretty good if i'm honest. Also have put a couple of coats of Danish oil on the timber work which really has made the wood look good. I have the old cushions in there at the moment but I will be getting those re-trimmed in good time. Also fitted some more safety essentials Quick pic with the bubbly box in I got myself some super straight bumpers that needed a bit of attention so I sent them to be shot blasted to clean the old crud off. I wanted to get them powder coated because I can and the finish is good and durable. Anyway the number came back and it was apparent that a bit of rot had set in, nothing major but you can't use filler when powder coating so this was obviously a problem. Was made better by the fact the 'rust' was mainly where the bumper strip would go on the deluxe models. Only one thing for it, by some and fit them What do you guys think? They are growing on me and they would be handy to stop scratching when I have a little bump here and there. Good thing to point out the bumpers are good old fashioned OG's and real heavy but very straight otherwise I would not have bothered. Still got more to do, need to make and install the cooker, gas cupboard, extractor fan, vinyl the rear quarter lights, rear loading cupboard but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now which is spurring me on to get it done!
The seats and cupboard look fab, infact the whole bus does, your work is excellent. I like the bumper strips - I was considering adding those myself... I do like them
Really interesting restoration. We are just about to embark on a similar journey with our superviking that we have recently purchased, but being less practical we'll be 'outsourcing' 90% of it. Thanks for posting all this stuff, inspiring!
I don't think you can if I'm honest. I may have one in the depths of doom. When I get a minute I will dig it out for you
nice thread But being realy realy realy realy picky, and only on a safety note, i dont think the smoke detector is fitted in a suitable place for it to work effectively , this isnt a critisism but a safety issue i am tying to raise , youve taken the time and effort and money to fit one , but i am sure they need to be horizontaally fitted , about 9 inch in from a wall and ceiling junction i know it will work where it is - eventually , but it may be too late by then . i think i see a carbon monoxide alarm along side it , believe the same applies to that i am no expert and i am open to critisism from those who know much better , and i see it as a learning curve if i am wrong ! ?
There will be more to follow guys. Busy with work and 2 baby's for the time being but the list is still live in my head. Just need some good old fashioned time!!!
Hi there - I know its now 4 years on but I wondered if you still have your Super Viking and whether you can remember much about sorting the interior out. Ours has been apart for 3 years now and we are scratching our heads regarding putting it back together so I would love some advice and help if you are still there!
I haven’t been on here for a bit but I do still have my bay, I will help out where I can. What do you need to know?
Hi - thanks for getting back to me. I love your box you made that goes in the walk through bit. Could you send me some dimensions? Also can you remember how you put all the upstairs beds back together. Ours is currently in bits and has been for the past 3 years so we're a bit rusty about where to start! I've had some really useful advice and video from Jim McGlynn but as many heads as possible on how to do it would be much appreciated.
If I recall from doing our roof some 8yrs ago, the first parts to place on the roof are the 4 large unlaminated timbers that screw to the angle iron followed by the angled wood that the retractable panels slide on (there should be 4 of them (2 each side of the hole) and they may have plastic on them too). The angle iron that covers the hole in the roof and the 2 shorter lengths are curved to follow the shape of the roof and the distance between them is the same as the wooden pieces that screw to them. There are 2 lengths of square section steel tubes that the smaller square section stainless steel tubes slide in and out of and they are attached to the end panels and the angle iron frame that covers the hole cut in the roof . The end panels cover the narrow ends of the hole cut in the roof (one end has the zig unit sited in it and is larger than the other which is curved on the bottom) These end panels need fitting when the retractable/sliding bar is fitted and are normally bolts not screws as they take the weight of the sliding section when it is extended) At the ends of the stainless sections that slide in and out of the square section steel (which is bolted to the afore mentioned ends) there is a long square section stainless steel tube which runs the full length of the roof. This is riveted to the 2 afore mentioned sliding pieces and at the ends there are 2 or 3 tabs. These tabs support the sections of laminated wooden panel that fit between the 4 afore mentioned sliding angled wood/plastic. The reason the laminated wooden panels attach to the bar by the tabs is to give it support when extended but it is the connection that causes it to slide in and out when the main long bar is pushed out. The pieces of laminated wood that slide should have a piece of metal screwed to them (the foot/base of a round bar which is goal post shaped and in turn rivets to the canvas/roof bellow). The top of these 2 laminated pieces of wood that slide on the angled wood/plastic runners may be just flush with the tops of the 4 afore mentioned large pieces of unlaminated wood. They should not be higher as there are 2 other pieces of laminated wood that fit over the top and they are screwed down directly into the 4 large unlaminated pieces of wood. These last 2 pieces of unlaminated wood should have a slot cut into them which runs nearly the full length of them across the width of the van and the slot is the same size as the afore mentioned foot for the goal post shaped bar. These 2 pieces of wood help to encapsulate the sliding pieces of laminated wood below and the cut out allows the foot to move backwards and forward as the long square section stainless steel bar is pushed in and out. If the afore mentioned pieces have been fitted correctly you will have 2 wooden platforms at the front and back of the hole in the roof which will be flat/level and a wooden laminated front to each covering the main angle iron frame (the frame itself will be riveted over the hole that was cut in the roof at the factory). You should be able to slide the retractable section in and out and as you do the laminated section of wood that is sandwiched between the support runners and piece of wood above it will slide in and out too. You will see that there is a section between the wood that is open when the sliding section is extended and this is where 2 removable pieces of laminated wood fit. If you have the original wood and all the original fittings you will have 2 long lengths that are 2 pieces of wood fitted together at an obtuse angle and they will be straight on one side but recessed on the other (one may have the door bell attached which is the button that operates the water pump for the sink) these 2 pieces/sections of laminated wood run the length of the hole cut in the roof along the length of the van and will need fitting next with the recess at the top. The one with the door bell attached will have a smaller 1” section of wood screwed to it at the top and when it is screwed to the angle iron the top of the smaller 1” section of wood will be lower than the top of the long bar that slides in and out. The depth will bend on the thickness of the wood you choose to ‘fill in’ the hole left when the slider is pushed out. Attached/screwed to one end of the removable wooden panels are 2 metal sections/strips which are “Z” shaped and these rest on the long section of square section stainless steel tube with the other side of the removable wood pieces resting on the 1” piece of wood. This will mean that the full length of the extendable/sliding section is level and lower that the 2 static end sections by the thickness of the wood. You will also see that the cut out/notch in the long piece of wood is an aide getting in and out of the roof allowing you to slide your legs up and down. The opposite side of the van to the retracting side is a piece of laminated wood some 12” wide that runs the length of the hole and fits between the 2 end pieces you fitted earlier. On the end pieces are wooden supports the wood rests on and these are the runners/slides it moves on (the sliding section of wood should have a metal support bar running along it). At the front of this sliding section is a piece of wood that has a cut out mirroring the opposite side to aide getting up and down. This piece of wood is designed so that when the roof is down the wood slides out allowing the roof to close fully. The fact it can slide in and out when the roof is up gives more space to stand in the van when the beds are not made. The roof is hinged on one side and within the roof (on the hinged side) there are 3 sections of strong canvas that are attached to the roof and to the 2 static sections of laminated wood and to the sliding section of laminated wood that fits between the end sections (that support the sliding section of wood). When the roof goes up the sections connected to the static pieces becomes taught and when the sliding section is pulled towards the middle of the van the canvas becomes taught too. It is the tightness of the strong canvas that provides the support as a bed. In respect of the metal sliding sections there should be 2 spring loaded bolts (normally have a large knurled plastic knob on them) that screw to the 2 small end sections (one has the zig unit sited in it). These bolts will located with holes in the stainless steel square section and prevent them sliding fully out and lock them in place. If you are fitting a new bellows you need to remember there is only so much travel in the foot of the goal post shaped bar and that the smaller diameter square section stainless steel bar can only come out of the larger diameter square section steel bar so far before support is lost. The manner in which the long section of square section stainless steel bar and round section of goal post shaped stainless steel bar are attached to the bellows dictates how taught it can be compared to how far the roof opens and how far the retractable section has to extend to get it tight. The bellows attach to the roof itself by screws which pass through a section of wood that sits in a loop of the bellows. The lower sections of the bellows are held on to the roof by strips of metal/plastic that are riveted to the roof of the van itself. I found I was unable to get the bellows to tighten and had to modify the goal post bar making it adjustable in length as I could not increase the distance the foot/base ran without compromising the safety of the bed. I believe this is a roof from a T25 Viking but it is similar but the hole in the roof possibly smaller. May assist to see what parts you do and don’t have.
Right guy's. I think it is time to bite the bullet and sell the campervan. I haven't been able to use her anywhere near as much as I'd like to due to 2 little people who now live with me (my kids, not midgets). I am just trying to gauge what you think she would be worth. This thread pretty much tells the story as to where she is at. About 95% finished but basically what is out standing is to make the cooker (which I would do if I fetch the right price) vinyl the rear quarter lights and rear loading bay, fit the extractor fan and design/build a gas cupboard to store the gas bottle. Any suggestion on value would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
To get the best price I’m afraid you may have to complete the restoration. We had storage for the gas bottles put inside our van, but after living with it for a few years I think it would have been better if there were pipes and a quick coupling system in the engine bay so that the bottles were on the floor outside the van thereby eliminating the risk of any leakage/compliance with any gas regs, and increased storage within. I think the best way to achieve a good price is to take it to the right shows and display it and show potential customers how big and versatile it is. Prices vary and are very much dependant on what the individual is prepared to pay....but I believe the values of all campers has dropped from what they were. It’s a shame you have to sell it after all the work you’ve put into it. We have 2 kids (now 18 and 14) but they still come away with us and enjoy the experience as they have for the last 16yrs of our ownership (we do take an awning and sometimes the teardrop trailer to give them some privacy).
Sorry your selling! Always thought this looked a very nice bus! No idea on value I’m afraid! Possibly not the best time of year to sell. Will check down the sofa for old lottery tickets.
