Hi guys, preparing to put my camping interior in, but need to know a few things. I am using 4 mm dynamat on the engine deck and bulkhead, and the sides. Not sure what to do on the cargo floor? Read lots of advice, I am planning on a finished surface of quality wooden laminate glued onto a thin plywood backing , so I can remove it periodically to clean and dry out. But what do you suggest goes under the wood? And what goes under the cabinets??
a lot is down to personal preferance. I've read a few threads where people have said anything under the floor can trap moisture ......I've just used ply with nothing underneath. I'd run the flooring across the whole of the van (under the cupboards) ....but it would make removing the floor difficult. I doubt you'd need to remove the floor to air it out TBH unless your subjecting it to a lot of moisture
look at all the videos on you tube about dynamate alternatives, any self adhesive aluminium backed flashing is said to be the same stuff, like this from wickes, http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Self-Adhesive-Hi-Tack-Flashing-Strip-225mmx10m/p/243011 and a hello of a lot cheaper! im thinking of going down this route, anything is better than bare metal but going to use this first http://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/silent-coat small areas on big panels etc then go over everything with the flashing,
Hi tack flashing is exactly what it says, it has a thick soft tacky bitumen coating & should only be used to remedy a failed lead flashing strip. It is quite awful stuff to use, especially messy. @paradox is quite right closed cell foam does not hold moisture & can be bought at wickes in 10sqm packs for about £25 it's that thin grey stuff that goes under laminate flooring, has excellent thermal & accoustic properties. If you desperately wanted a foil backed layer, you can get a more expensive underlay used for solid wood flooring but I dont know where from - this has a very thin foil top layer but is a more traditional underlay body. Hope this helps?
I'm going to use Silent Coat under the ply for mine but just looked at Wickes underlay (current range is here) The foil backed stuff looks interesting - thoughts?
i used dynamat on the floor with foil insulation from wickes over the top then moisture resistant ply over that.
this stuff is great....and impervious to moisture http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-pro-barrier-mlv 5kg/m^2 is pretty darn good
Thanks for the replies! I "think" I am going to use pukka dynamat for the rear and engine bulkhead underneath some close cell foam and carpet ( looks good, I know, I know... ) . And for the floor I will fit my units over close cell foam, plywood and laminate flooring, but cut to the same shape so that the rest of the cargo floor can be removed without have to strip everything out. The floor itself is being bare metalled, two coats of red oxide and. 2 PAC finished body colour blue, so hopefully moisture will not have an easy time eating my floor from the inside!!!
Try bonda primer in place of red oxide - supposed to be the canines cahones (if that is how you spell cahones?)
Yes I think that is what I have! As a side, I got a book for Christmas called something like " how to install a camper van interior " Should have really been called " How to install a camper can interior on a budget and with no respect to 5 years down the line" Truly shocking bodges , using rock wool loft insulation, polystyrene , old bits of carpet and underlay. The bus would rot itself inside out if I followed lots of his advice, I stupidly thought it would tell me the correct way to do things
it wasn't the Official Devon Manual was it? Despite what some will tell you, Dynamat isn't the same stuff as 'flashing repair tape...the latter uses bitumen, which stinks when hot....
No way I will use bitumin again, it's cheap but messy and yes it can stink!! Would not want to do a tour of Spain in a bus full of bitumin in 100 degree heat!!!
Just got a box of Silent Coat silver foil type insulation from the local mechanic who builds insane American hot rods. He swears by it . Going to cover the engine cover, engine bulkhead, drivers fool well and sides with it. Will post done pics up, just the small matter of respraying it inside and out first!
you don't need acres of the stuff for it to work well....it's diminishing returns after about 40 % coverage...better off laying some mass loaded vinyl over the top, as this reduces other frequencies
Yes I am just going to completely cover the bulkhead and engine deck with it, and then 12mm closed cell foam ( weighs hardly anything ) and carpet over the top. The sides I was going to use sparingly to damp vibrations, but as it is foil silver and really not lot required I will pack doors he help with heat insulation. I will completely cover the front footwell to try and drown out the road noise too, and use more close cell foam. I went to the Slough Swapmeet and sat in the back round the M25, was quite shocked hiw loud it all was to be honest, but there was no paneling or insulation whatsoever. It is really surprising just what a piece of carpet can do to be honest , so I hope that little lot will make the bus bearable.
