roverv8

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourselves' started by roverbay, Mar 21, 2013.

  1. I have moved the bolt holes in the beam plates to lift ECLECTIC by 6cms & adjusted the adjusters all the way down to maximum lift & this is the result. I was going to look at new torsion spring plates for it. Then I found these at a recycle centre their of a 2016 Ford Ranger replaced with aftermarket so new set for front & rears for $10.00. I will have reinforcing plates mounted over the lower arms.
    With standard suspension & on full adjustment

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    with the coilovers instant lift
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    setting up for measurements for brackets to mount to the beam plates & chassis rails

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    showing the top location plenty of room to remove the top bolt for the shock.

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    the rear lift was done with 12mm plates. No change in spline settings so no problems with setting splines to equal position. the rear wheel arches had been cut out by the previous owner I have new panels to bring them back to standard.

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    this is the template for the front arm it will sit top & bottom the have 20mm strap welded around the sides to lock them together over the arms & bolted through the swaybar hole & a piece of 25 X 50mm tube with crush tube inside it will go onto the original shock bolt. A pretty simple solution to strengthen the arms

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    the new shock will sit in the bracket on top

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    Last edited: Aug 21, 2016
    Merlin Cat1 and Buddy Hawks like this.
  2. G'day all. here are the cut out 4mm plates to use for shock mount.

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    how coilover will sit on plate
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    Last edited: Aug 24, 2016
    Buddy Hawks and rob.e like this.
  3. Only just found this thread, it's brilliant! Keep the updates coming.

    I love the attitude of let's see what I can get from any vehicle that is the right size to do what I want to do, rather than just going for custom bits everywhere.
     
  4. Welcome orangefeeling. As you will see if you go to the start of the build there's not much left untouched. The hardest part is trying to find away or part to do the job & then having to have it made or where possible make it myself.
     
  5. Absolutely mad , but would love a ride :thumbsup: .
     
  6. G'day Bucksboy. join the queue mate I want to have a ride maybe mid next year
     
  7. G'day all. the world is getting smaller thanks to the net while attending a annual Veedub show today I was talking to a man called Scott turns out to be Wonty from this forum. A small world. just got smaller. Nice chap with a nice T2.
     
    cunny44, Merlin Cat1, Wonty and 2 others like this.
  8. Hi Ernie! Yes this is me - still can't believe how we met! Talking about your build, and then BOOM, a memory of this thread came to mind - I guess it was the moment you started telling me about the full length electric sun roof that you are going to fit - there was only one bay I could imagine doing such a thing justice! Thank you for the kind words about me and my bus, hopefully I will come and see the build in the future, or catch you at the next show (I'm on the Nimbin Cruise, and the Gold Coast Show weekender, then the next one is the Sun and Shine a week or so later.)

    Still can't believe how we actually met! Keep Dubbin'
     
    Merlin Cat1 likes this.
  9. G'day all. Hi Wonty. are you going to the chill out in Tambourine. Now for update the front drive shafts are final sorted & working. the outers are standard Holden Rodeo the shafts are standard Mitsubishi Magna the inners are magna with the shaft machined down to form a spigot then pressed into Holden commodore diff out put shafts.

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    I have had space issues with the rear prop shaft needing plunge for movement between to flanges I have to have a slip yoke of some type in the shaft similar to Land rovers etc. nothing small enough from the tailshaft man. so after sitting sorting through bit box I set up this 1st prototype still to long so onto 2nd type much better. It is made up of 2 commodore CV's bolted to a spacer plate. When I have it made it will have a raised flange to hold location & bolted together.
    This was 1st
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    2nd & final. Have a spacer made. Shafts machined & flanges welded on then fit it to diff. I can then weld the diff mount brackets in. job done.

    flanges to fit the transfercase & diff. Before someone jumps in it is on upside down

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
    paradox likes this.
  10. Hats off to you, just read whole thread, inspiration for us lesser mortals. I just struggle keeping rust at bay!
     
  11. Yeah me too- some mind boggling engineering going on in this build @roverbay
     
  12. G'day Cunny44 & Valveandy. I was lucky when the daughter found & bought the kombi for me very little rust ro be done most are pin holes I can run a step drill through to take rust out then weld plugs in. this is basically what the entire floor is like

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    Last edited: Jun 15, 2017
    paradox likes this.
  13. building stepside type guards for the rear to clear off road tyres 10cm exhaust tube cut into 4. the right curved sections welded to the new guard arches. when they are finished they will bolt on through flat flanges welded inside them like a beetle guard. then using rivnuts to hold to body.

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    Last edited: Jun 15, 2017
    paradox likes this.
  14. Will the sliding door not foul on them?
     
  15. G'day Paradox there is a slight gap. I will cut the arm down & lengthen it by an inch. that will give plenty of room
     
  16. [​IMG] Does anyone over there in the UK rebuild the rear sliding mechanism for the bay door. If not there's a bloke here that does a damn good job on them
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2017
    paradox likes this.
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    This is what a T3 box set up is like. I consider my method a lot stronger at chassis point

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    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
    Valveandy and paradox like this.
  18. This is the notching I had to do to fit the rack over the diff housing. when it's finished it will be 4mm thick metal with nuts welded under it to bolt the rack mount to it will have 4 mm plates welded on both sides to bolt through the chassis rails there will be tubes in the rails. This will make it a simple task to remove the rack if required.

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    This is the left side mount. the tube will be welded to plate & bolt through the chassis. The tube is heavy walled tailshaft tube. The rack mount will be attached to angle welded to the plate.
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  19. G'day all. started fitting steering bevel box & column. The column is L300 same as the bevel box. the column has tilt for ease of entry. also moving it across to centre with the seat.

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    paradox and Valveandy like this.
  20. Love watching this thread, your work is great and your problem solving a pleasure to read
    Cheers
    Andy
     

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