Should I do my valve clearance while the engine is out or when it's back in and filled with oil? I tried doing no1, as I thought it would be easier to find tdc (pencil in spark plug) with all the tinware off. But... When I turned the fly wheel after backing all the rocker arms off the values, I heard a twang from one of the valve springs. Is that normal after having the head off? Concerned that without oil in, I may be causing some damage. Type 4 2.0l FI (hydraulic Lifters)
The twang was a pushrod settling in the centre of the follower, they don't naturally engage where they need do, worth checking they're all in place before you set the gaps. Much easier with the engine out, so take the opportunity now.
Thanks @zedders, so not having oil in the engine won't cause it to much damage? Simpleton question... do I need to find tdc if my distributor has a mark on the case for #1 cylinder?
No, assuming you've coated the lot in assembly lube/oil as you've built it anyway? The mark moves if you twiddle the dizzy body, so find TDC using the pencil and mark on the pulley where this is for future reference.
Cool thanks. I have the TDC already marked on my pulley, so will recheck when I get the fan casing back on, just in case.
New to me, so is there some kind of pre setting for hydraulic lifters then after that you don't touch them? The bottom of the post say a type 4 2.0 hydraulic lifters, just wondering
Yep, there needs to be a 'preload'. It may need redoing once the engine has been run up to speed, but you need to make some initial stab at it. I had them on my WBX engine, were a total pain after the rebuild to get set, once done though they never need doing again, so there are some benefits!
What caused the 'total pain after the rebuild to get set'. Interested to see if I have the same issues.
I rebuilt the hydraulic tappets (as I'm assuming you will to get them full of oil?) as per the Haynes, filled them with lovely clean oil and stored upright in an oil bath. Installed with the vent hole upwards, to assist with preventing bleed down, but several did anyway (impossible to get initial settings when they are 'soft'). Building one back up: First one in the oil bath, only 7 left to go.... Got it running, bit rough and tappety with the few soft ones letting the side down. They pumped up eventually when running, but when the engine was turned off and allowed to cool, when I came to reset them all to the 1 and 1/2 turns in (I think - memory is slight hazy!) they were soft again. And again. Lost count of how many times I lay underneath and set them. (Note, the engine can be 'warm' rather than stone cold apparently, which helped with a couple). Ended up replacing first one (the worst offender), then all of them (when others wouldn't set) with new ones, which in a WBX means trashing the pushrod tubes as they don't come out like the T4 ones, so ended up with the two piece sprung loaded ones. Its also nearly impossible to put the pushrods back in successfully once the engine is back in. With the new ones in they did set better, with only one that went soft (twice) but got there in the end. Then did 10,000 miles without ever looking at them, didn't drain down again.... I was assured by various 'experts' on the web that I was a numpty and that it shouldn't be that hard, and that you can set them dry/soft so it may be that I was making a mountain from a molehill, but I found it the worst bit of the whole build. Good luck!!
@Fil6 Yeah, dead easy to do once filled with oil. ratwell does suggest doing the final setting when the engine is warm otherwise you may be trying to set a tappet that has drained down. So basically check them again when you've run the engine & everything has calmed down. Be prepared for an horrendous clattering for up to 15 minutes unitl they pump up. It sounds breaky & if you've never had it before it will scare you. lol I've only ever done mine twice in 8 years & 35k, apart from last night when I quickly popped the cover off & re-set number one. TDC is rotor to mark on body of dissy & mark on fan pulley at zero on the timing scale. I use tipp-ex on the marks to make them easier to see. Both valves on no1 can be done by undoing the 14mm nut, backing off the screw & then carefully turning it down until it just touches the valve, then 1.5 more turns in. Tighten it all up turn the engine anti-clock 180 degrees & move to the next one. No faffing with feeler gauges
Right (muppet face on) I have not removed the lifters, but the engine has been out for a number of weeks. So have I caused myself problems? Should I removed the heads, get the lifters out and prime them with clean oil? Are they easy to get out? I did notice that when I did #1 that the rocker arm was a little stiff, and that the adjustment screw was much further out than before. Many thanks for the heads up.
I wouldn't. It might sound frightening rattly when you start it, but worry not. To set adjusters, ensure they are free running and tighten up gently, you will easily feel when they hit, then another 1.5 turns. They don't have to be pumped up first, there is a spring inside. Do be sure the push rods are seated correctly in the followers before you start though. 'Tis said they pump up better with 15/40 than 20/50.
That's more likely to be caused by this: If they are empty they are more likely to be soft and spongy. If I'm honest, I don't fully understand how they work - I read the ratwell guide many times, but for some reason I can't get my head round it (which really winds me up, hate not understanding anything), so I followed Mr Haynes blindly and filled them with oil (although he's been wrong before!) A big cheese in the T25 world said its easier doing them all 'dry' but too late for me.... If you're at the heads on stage I'd go with @zedders and fire it up.
Great. When you say 'Free running' is that the rocker arm? So my plan is to: 1/ Find #1 TDC 2/ Back off the screw so it is free from the valve 3/ tighten up screw until the base is just touching the valve 4/ Apply a further 1.5 turns 5/ Do the rest
Only by offering a prayer to the great god of VW engines!! Ideally you'll feel them slot in, but not always. If its on an engine stand its easy, just spin the engine round and gravity assists. If its in eth van or flat on the bench, I found that if they were 'in' with a little preload on the rocker arm you could gently twist them round gently. If they weren't seated they wouldn't twist....
