Flaming gearbox carrier bolts

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Faust, Feb 11, 2016.

  1. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Well things were going an absolutely superb fitting my engine and gearbox together ...as i wanted to try it that way rather than separately ( type 4 ) . All fitted fine in about 10 minutes on my own until i tried to get the carrier bolts in , the 2 top ones .
    What didn't help was i bent the carrier captive nut slightly and forgot to pull it back into position , after bending it on taking it all out like a git . So after screaming like a small child and banging my head on absolutely everything creating dints and scratches all over my No 1 cut head , and my wife said to me when i came in, wound up like Lucifer on a church parade ....You look like you have been trying to catch chickens with your head darling .
    So i think i will split the engine from the box tomorrow and get to the carrier nuts at ease . Part of me thinks that it's been used to the 3 rib , and now fitting the 6 rib which has a slightly different feral tubing in the box casing . oh well you live and learn ...and don't laugh Zed , i seem to remember you telling me they can be awkward .:mad:
     
  2. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    don't fret dude :)

    We had the same issue!

    We put a slight taper on the end of the bolts, made sure the threads where nice and clean.

    From memory we got a long screwdriver to push on the bolt whilst turning it - after several bumps to the head later they went in okay!
     
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  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Best get bolt almost to thread then operate your jack with your foor to creep the engine/box upwards until you can get the bolt in by hand. No jack no hope.
     
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  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The original bolts are just like that - about 6mm tapered without thread at the end.
     
  5. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Our bolts had flat ends, no wonder we struggled!
     
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  6. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Think i will try a G clamp to pull the bent captive nut back to position then try again before i take any other drastic change of action . Can't think of any other way as there is nothing rigid to pull it back against either snap the alloy casting or bend the main rear tin .
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Drop the engine/box down a bit and sort it out properly?
     
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  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It really does need a dry run. Prob teaching granny, but I would wind a bolt in from the engine side until its almost at the hole the other side then use that to aim as you bend. Go careful I've seen one with the captive nut fallen off...
     
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  9. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Wouldn
    To be honest some times wonder if it would be easier if it was a nut and bolt ...there's room for your fingers to hold the nut , and not being stuck to one angle
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No it's not! It's ok if you take engine/box out seperately but not together
     
  11. PSG

    PSG

    same here. i nearly had a melt down doing this.
     
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  12. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    There in now thank god ...still kept it in one piece , my mistake was tightening up the gearbox support bar at linkage end and fitting the engine carrier bar bolts first ...went in a treet the carrier bolts first :)
     
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  13. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Did you know the captive nuts come off with a rattle gun?.

    I do. :eek:

    The first bit of welding I did on my bus was recapturing the captive nuts on the gearbox hanger.
     
  14. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Ill expect it running by teatime :eek: :D
     
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  15. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Had to find a longer starter motor bolt as the old one was to short ..Strangely, must be a bit fatter on the casting , shame really as the old one was one of those D shaped locking one so you don't need to hold the spanner on the other end .
    I am making one to the same speck with a new longer bolt , and hopefully will work . Running by mid day if i am not distracted .
    After that it's cylinder head gasket on the old Foden 2 stroke . Water in the oil , either that or liner seals leaking, and if it's that then it's pistons out and all that carp .
    You will have to come round Mark when i have finished it , you will need ear protection as it's as loud as a Stuka .
    But i might start doing it when it's a bit warmer as it's housed practically in a Igloo.
     
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  16. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Let me know when Ewan and I will pop round :thumbsup:
     
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