Stopping leaks is even more important than insulation IMHO, leaks from the pipes, heat exchangers and also draughts from poor door seals. I chucked a plumbers smoke pellet down mine and was surprised at how bad the flaps were in my repro heat exchangers. The last few millimeters of movement on the flaps make a difference to leaks, on mine that last bit of travel is stiffer to operate and it goes without saying that adjustment is crucial so both heat exchangers close and open at exactly the same time otherwise one of them wont be completely operated. If you use a smoke pellet do it outside, not in the garage, and open the cab windows, you want a light breeze to take the smoke out of the cab quickly but not too much wind so you can look underneath and see where the leaks are. My bus still smells a bit of the smoke pellet, but its not too unpleasant.
How would you guys recommend sealing the leaks? I was thinking of using Gorilla tape as it is heat resistant. My heating is just about working and I have original heat exchangers but I suspect there are lots of leaks. Also my door seals are rubbish so need replacing.
The tape i used for holding my insulation on - the silver stuff from b n q is ok , or exhaust wrap - tbh most heat resistant tape like stuff will be ok , it doesn't get too hot
Pretty sure none of mine have clamps. Would a normal jubilee clamp work? I'm not sure where the leaks are from as I've not investigated it yet, I just know that the joints aren't great
Rip the thermostat off, block up the air intake behind the fan housing, drop enough oil so its below the bottom mark on the dipstick, adjust the timing so its off and boy you will have the best heating ever! Of course no engine long after but where is your sense of adventure!! Just kidding DONT EVER DO any of this! hahaha
Yeah large jubilee clamps will be fine You often find that the y piece through the rear crossmember and the reducer through the front cross member are rotton and it leaks out the hot air All the rest of it is just pipes and clamps Earlier bays have a steel centre tube under the bus and later bays had this replaced with a corrugated cardboard hose
Hmm to be investigated me thinks but maybe when its not minus 300 outside (although that is when I need the heating the most!)
Is there enough clearance over the torsion tube to get shut of the Y pieace and run flexies to a new Y piece further forwards?
It will be at least -289 inside with the heating on - so thats a bonus - they were hardy souls in the 40,50,60,70's!
Two pieces of tin air pipe, i ran those to the rubber bits the over the rear beam and into the large pipe, sealed them with silver tape, ran her up today -3 here and she was toasty in ten minutes
Ta for that. Im looking at doing the same and also junking the metal centre tube (mines a cross dresser(ish)) ive got a tee piece and insulated corrugated tube. Mine s atype 4 so slightly different but basic principle is the same.
If you fix all the leaks, you'll know you've cracked it by the shower of confetti that comes out of the dash vents the first few times you rev it through the gears. Rust flakes, mouse poo, dead insects... If you don't get a good blast of air it's not unknown to find the centre pipe completely stuffed with shredded mouse nest stuff.