Oil leak type4 engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by iblaze, Apr 3, 2024.

  1. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Also check the oil pump cover, filter adapter, oil pressure sender and the distributor.
     
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  2. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    Are you going to change your dip stick bellows iblaze ?
     
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  3. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I've no idea mate till I get chance to look at it.

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  4. Faust

    Faust Supporter

    If you want i have a spare viton dip stick bellows i bought off Zed ....if you want it i can send it to you ...they are the best ones mines been on 11 years no problems . can't remember how much i bought it for something like 7 quid .
    Let me know if you want it ...see you at techenders .
     
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  5. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    It doesn't look too good, does it.
    I'll get it off you at Techenders, mate. [​IMG]

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  6. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    You can see all the potential leak paths at the back of the engine from that pic. All those already mentioned plus the oil cooler and seals, oil filler tube, thermostat pulley bolt even the breather tower. Dip stick boot is probably the most likely and fairly easy to replace.
     
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  7. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Plus the oil gallery plugs at the rear of the engine near the fan have been known to leak or in the extreme pop out.
     
  8. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Oil leak fixed cheers mate the bellows worked great.

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  9. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Oil drip is back on the sump heater.
    I replaced the bolts with studs and then used copper washers and nylock nuts.
    It's been fine since my last post, but I looked this morning, and it's dripping from the bottom of the nylocks.
    Is there anything I can put on to stop it?


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  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Doughty + dome nuts?
     
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  11. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You need to tighten copper washers until they start to crush onto a flat, smooth surface.
    The copper crushing probably starts at about the point the base plate of the heater deforms.

    Dowty washers have lip seals but rely on the hole the stud comes through being pretty close to the diameter of the stud, the sealing lip touches the thread.


    Another approach is to punch or drill a somewhat small hole, a bit less than the stud diameter, in a circular piece of oil proof rubber sheet or rubberish gasket material,
    Then squash it onto the plate with a washer between it and the nut- it should swell into the threads as well as sealing.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2024 at 4:51 PM
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  12. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    I've used Doughty washers didn't make any difference and I think the studs stick out to much for dome nuts.

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  13. iblaze

    iblaze Supporter

    Copper washers are crushed its running around the thread
    I thought the nylon on the nylocks would stop it
    But no it finds its way past it.

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  14. You could carefully cut the studs down
    Remember to wind a nut over them first and tidy up the cut ends
     
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