Hi there, I have recently put dropped spindles on my bay, I didn’t move the track rod ends at all before dropping, since the drop, the driver side wheel now rubs on the back of the wheel arch, when wheels are straight, there seems to be about 10mm difference in each side, the drivers side sits back 10mm more than the passenger side. It’s definitely rubbing on the seam joint which goes through your body when turning right and there is a mark on the paint also. I took it to get the tracking sorted out but they couldn’t do it as they couldn’t hang the gear on the rear wheels, I then found out my shocks were done, I have since fitted new ones. The drivers side is still rubbing when turning right. How do I move the wheel forward in the arch so it sits in the centre of the arch so no rubbing? I want to get it tracked up properly but wanted to stop the rubbing before I take it somewhere. I don’t want to ***** the inside of the panel to remove the pressure on the tyre if you know what I mean.
One of the track arms is adjustable so, undo the lock nut, separate the track rod end from the spindle and wind it out. a rough measure between the front, inside of the wheels and rear inside of the front wheels should tell you when they are approximately equal. you may need to reset the camber angle too.
Cheers for that, I will give it a whirl in the morning. I’ve tried turning the camber nut to see it that will pull it back but it hasn’t
You turn the camber nut half a turn and then it points the opposite way. It has an offset bore for the ball joint fixing bolt. It just rotates. It is good for maybe +/- 5mm at the height of the camber nut, its there for putting a 0.5 degree outward camber on the top of the wheel. Otherwise, the person who welded your wheel arch managed to assemble it asymmetrically. Measure the distance from points on the front beam to the back of the wheel arch where it rubs, same measurements on each side to check that the arch is symmetrical. Try narrower tyres, 185/65R15 are no hassle on my bus but that only has cut and twist lowering - that pushes the suspension back as it rotates down. There is a fingers breadth, about 10mm when turning right, between the back of the tyre and my mudflap bracket that is about 5mm taller than the seam . Say 15mm clearance. The tyres are probably worn about 5mm. So that makes about 10mm for new tyres from the seam. 185/65 R15 will be 62.2 cm diameter or 31.1cm radius. 205/65 R15 will be 64.8cm diameter or 32.4 cm radius, or 13 mm bigger. So if I had 205/65 R15 with my mudflaps , they would rub both sides, and possibly hit the seam without mudflap brackests both sides.
That’s brilliant pal, I will have a tinker tomorrow and see if moving it half turn helps , I will keep you posted
Look for the notches on the camber nut, turn nut so they both face forwards then measure. If it's not that...it's something else. One never knows what bash and subsequent repair has occurred previously. e.g. this one the sliding door hole wasn't square so after head scratching I cut through with a 1mm disc and this happened. It's not the end of the world, more layers of previous repairs were removed and it sorted itself out in the end, I don't remember the details so must have been straightforward.
Are both tyres a matching pair, could be different profiles/manufactures. FYI when ours was on dropped spindles, lowered beam like in picture our tyres were 155/50/r15 or else they rubbed...
The colour is a secret recipe, even I don't know what it is. The owner pestered someone who's bus was often seen in mags, it had a name, it was a famous "scene" bus. The something or other bus. I've seen lots of attempts at that kind of colour that don't quite do it so I know what you mean. The something bay- something was a place. Edit: The Poole Bay something. Maybe.
Rush job to get it finished for his wedding. New front panel, arches etc etc. Full resto. If people send me photos...they NEVER shut my beautifully flush fitted cab door past the first click. Here's another one see?