Don't know if you need the advice but: you should be able to take the barrel out of the lock, put the key in and drop the pins in as flush as possible. Then file them flat to the barrel and reassemble. Hope this helps. Sent from my moto g(7) optimo maxx(XT1955DL) using Tapatalk
The key turns in the handle but it feels like nothing is connecting to the barrel. I think the bit on the back of the barrel that pops the button (and is held in place by a small screw) might have come off an jammed the lock mechanism as even the button inside won't lift. Either that or the catch on the door that rotates to grab the striker on the door pillar is seized or jammed. Found the old MOTs dating back to 1988. It only had 70k on the clock then. Less than 4k a year.
Door mech couldn't be more complicated if they tried. Trying to work out what could have failed and how to unlock it.
just caught up...well done with the MOT, it always feels like a huge pat on the back when you have restored a vehicle and the effort pays off Once the niggles are sorted, have fun and put your feet up a while
Cheers. I've got a list of things that could do with being done over winter while the weather is pants. I still need to sort out the box on my caravelle too but haven't found a decent second hand one yet and can't afford nearly 2 grand for a rebuilt one.
Checked the indicator with another new bulb and it flashes nicely (you'll have to image it flashing in this piccy). Must have just been a duffnew breplacement bulb i tried. Thought i'd have a go at the door lock. Tried to lift the button inside and it popped up easily. Locks and unlocks nicely now. No idea what was making it refuse to open.
Very true about the mirrors. I think they are even worse on my convertible. When the hoods down I can’t see out the back or the sides and it’s left hand drive. Love it.
I removed the seat and trimmed the section on the back of the seat base. It used to be like this (arrowed) all the way along and the back 2" hung off the back of the floor mounted rails and hit the floorpan when the seat was all the way back so I trimmed it down like the area circled on this piccy. The seat now slides further back and i have gained 1 1/4" (32mm ) of leg room. The seat can't go back any further and lock into place unless i trimmed the curved tubular section of the base and cut off and rewelded the locking teeth further back.
Seems that one of the bangs i hear going over bumps is caused by the mudflaps hitting the ground, lifting the bracket and hitting the wing on its return. Gonna have to have a proper look and see how i can modify the brackets. Theres only about an inch and a half of clearance between the mudflap and the ground so maybe raising them a little might cure it.
I swapped the mudflap brackets side to side and cut off the bit that sat in the wing lip and its gone from 1.5" of clearance to just over 3.5" of clearance. Hopefully that'll be enough. Theres also not as much rear wheel camber as I originally thought. Just 2° negative . Never thought I'd ever have a use for the trigonometry I learnt in GCSE maths. Spotlights work and hopefully point somewhere near where they should.
Boss kit with hornpush is £20.49p new on ebay including postage, but a few people on Facebook have said they have one I can have for £25 posted.
Parcel with the steering wheel was in our recycling bin when I got back yesterday. Gave the spokes a quick going over with 1500 grit and a polish. Might give some of this leather dye a go to try and restore the faded bits. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/273824864560
Had to file out the mounting holes in the wheel as an M6 bolt was just too tight to go through cleanly without winding it through.
Replaced the wheel this afternoon. The 2" less diameter of the new wheel has given me a nice bit of extra leg room. The wheel obscures the rev counter above 3k revs but its no too bad.
