A question about removing the engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Valveandy, May 28, 2019.

  1. Yep Preservation Parts 1641, Slowly, and what is this morning thing you speak of?
    Hope the Nelson was good
    Cheers
    Andy
     
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  2. Aha, I think I have found the root cause of my woes, the dynamo pulley rear bit had separated from the keyed boss and I imagine this would result lack of cooling ensuing a very hot engine which then blew the crankcase to oil cooler seals, lack of oil and then dead engine. Well it's nice to know
     
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  3. 72 XO snots :thumbsup:
     
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  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Hopefully not an aftermarket pulley.. mine used to eat the woodruff keys and then the slot in the shaft because the slot in one pulley was too loose .. in the end I got a better condition alternator at Dubfreeze for £30.
     
  5. I am just fitting the ancillaries and am having trouble fitting the inlet manifold, the mounting point which goes onto the engine stud is wider than than the stud is long. Help! @mikedjames..
     
  6. Longer stud ;)
     
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  7. Just remembered Mike has twin carbs, anyone?
     
  8. looking that way, where's my M8 studding?
     
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  9. It's in the shed, under the box marked "Xmas Decorations".
     
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  10. Found it, in the roof of the garage, obviously.
    :)A
     
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  11. First place to look!
     
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  12. new stud (64mm) manufactured, old one removed using the two nut trick and new one fitted.
    And another thing, the inlet manifold centre mount casting needs milling, sawing and filing to get everything to line up (heat riser flanges), phew.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2019
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  13. Best to leave everything loose, including the exhaust, get it all straight, then tighten up :thumbsup:
     
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  14. I am doing exactly as you say. Just tried to fit crankshaft pulley and the one from my old engine fouled on the casing, good job I found a spare in my hoard of bits:thumbsup:
     
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  15. Next problem, new alternator(Bosch), new stand, new fuel pump then I tried fitting a fan belt and it's far too tight. Fan belt is 11.3x912 as sold by many. Help
     
  16. Assuming it is the right size...new belts can be a beggar to get on. Use ten shims, two on the outside, eight on the inside. Nip the nut on the alt pulley up (not too much), then keep turning the crank pulley, nipping up the alt nut as everything rotates. With sufficient profanity, the belt will ride up into its proper position. If it doesn't, you need to swear more.
     
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  17. Cheers Snotty, as I tightened the pulley(all shims on the inside) it started distorting the whole setup as it was so tight, so I went and tried my spare belt for the old dynamo setup and everything nipped up a treat. I cant see that I need a more manly belt as the alternator I have fitted is only a 55A so there shouldn't be a huge increase in the power the belt is required to transmit.
    On to the next thing.....
     
  18. As long as it's reasonably tight on the "pulling/drive" side, should be ok.
     
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  19. Surely the stud should be tempered ?
     
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  20. You're aware that you do need all 10 shims, or the alt pulley may not tighten up properly?
     
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