It doesn’t make a difference whether it’s been imported from the US or any other country. Take the rocker cover off; if there are springs between the rocker arms and the pushrods are aluminium then the cam followers are solid. If there are solid spacers between the rocker arms and the pushrods are steel then the cam followers are hydraulic. Check the valve clearance (solid cam followers need 006” clearance, hydraulic are preloaded), change the spark plugs, check the timing and adjust the clutch cable.
Took it to the garage that week and they told me it was running on 3 so I took their word for it. Don’t know what caused it, hadn’t sounded right beforehand. They replaced/fixed cylinder (maybe 2 actually, can’t find the invoice) and was sweet after I appreciate that isn’t much help. Hope it’s a simple fix
Thank you so much, I'll get home at 6 tonight and start dismantling and checking. I just read somewhere online the USA imports are more likely, doesnt matter. I'll order new plugs now, will they need to be spaced? Would it be worth taking the ht leads off one by one to check to see if I'm running on 3 cylinders
I agree with 77 Westy, if it's misfiring then check all the electrics first, plugs, leads, dizzy cap, coil etc.
It’s good practice to check the gap on new spark plugs but they probably won’t need to be adjusted - NGK plugs are the best you can get IMO. USA imports are more likely to have a Type 4 engine and it may or may not have hydraulic cam followers depending on the age of the engine and whether it has been overhauled. A 2.0l FI might have them from new but during an overhaul most people will remove the hydraulic cam followers and fit solids. Your engine sounds very ‘clattery’ and if it has hydraulic cam followers I doubt if they are adjusted correctly. If you suspect it’s running on three cylinders it would it be worth taking the HT leads off one by one to identify which one is missing – but I’d still change all the plugs and give the engine a full service and tune-up. And you need to replace the missing screws from the tin above the alternator and fit the adjuster screw cover. It looks like an engine in need of some TLC.
atha That's such a keen eye, the body has been restored so now the focus is the engine. Problem is I really not sure what a healthy engine sounds like, it's a bit daunting I really dont want to remove the engine.
Also I just have a quick question that someone might be able to help. I have a lever that's looks like it should be connect to the throttle cable, should I reconnect it
I don’t have FI but take a pic of the lever you think should be connected and someone will know what it is. Buy a Bentley manual and fit the bits that should be there but are missing. It’s a simple engine but some PO’s think they know better than VW and make modifications that are often detrimental to engine reliability.
I have just checked clutch cable its tight but also the butterfly nut is done up the whole way. There was only 1 drop of oil between the gear box and the engine doesnt look like it's really been leaking
No idea about the lever and switch, sorry. If the clutch cable is too tight the release bearing will wear out prematurely, and the clutch might slip. The clutch lever should have one mm or so of clearance before it touches the release bearing and that will be about 15mm of movement at the pedal. There shouldn’t be any oil between the gear box and the engine.
Best photos I could get I will take a video tomorrow after I've changed the oil, it is running on all 4 cylinders. It has to be the clutch but just doesnt feel like it is when driving. When I drove it the revs didnt just go up quick it it felt like driving up a very steep hill
When you change the oil, drain the oil from the drain plug; don’t touch the strainer bolt - if you do, DON’T overtighten it and use a torque wrench. From the couple of pics you can see that the lower cylinder tins are missing and the heat exchangers appear to be disconnected. The oil leaks are probably from the pushrod tubes and/or rocker cover gaskets. With the missing tin the cooling air will not be distributed correctly and the engine temperature will not be controlled, even if there is a thermostat.
That looks like the EGR pipe which appears to be blanked off- so should be doing nothing. The microswitch could be a variant of the FI for wide open throttle. What engine code is it. Check out the vw ratwell site for FI related info.
So just topped up the oil so I could have a quick drive, now I have new symptoms. When maintaining a speed it jumps, kind feels like when you run out of petrol but isnt the case. It's fine when accelerating. This it a little to beyond my skills/ tools time to save and take to a garage
I'd check for any vacuum leaks in the pipe work, I had something similar when a Y connector cracked, a bit of self amalgamating tape sorted it until I got a replacement.
