This is a view of my left hand 32-34 PDSIT 2/3 with the choke heater unit off. I'm setting the fast idle and have wired the choke flap closed. Is this the correct location for adjustment or should it be on the next notch?
If you need to adjust the fast idle there is a brass colour linkage arm next to the choke with 2 small 6 or 7mm nuts I think. You will see the throttle stop move as you adjust it. It is fairly easy. a tiny adjustment makes quite a difference. On a cold engine the choke flaps should be pretty much completely closed. You don’t normally have to remove the choke heater cover.
Thanks Patrick. I have the carb on the bench at the moment. I'm adjusting various settings, in particular warm idle and fast idle. I know that when I fiddled with it a good long time ago I inadvertantly undid the little nuts when I was supposed to be synching the carbs - that's a different adjustment rod. Following your logic I do seem to have got it in the correct position for adjustment. Top tip (from Sarran1955's You Tube video). At fast idle the opening needs to be 0.6 mm. You can use a feeler gauge but I'm using a length of 0.6 mm MIG welding wire.
Resurrecting this thread to clarify something that @Patrick Nguyen said. Had my carbs rebuilt/ refitted but most of the time ...well nearly always, the chock doesn't come on when I start from cold. The brass levers with the tiny nuts adjust the idle, so assuming chokes are not broken, a slight adjustment of the levers would / should rectify things. Do I make overall length of lever longer or shorter to make tickover faster ?
Before you maladjust something, check first that the choke flap really hasn’t closed. With the electrical heater cold, the choke flap should automatically turn under action of a light spring to the closed position. It should have a gap of 0.6 mm against the side of the carb body. It’ll be fairly obvious which nuts to adjust, but I can’t remember without looking. At this time of year, you can probably get it to start quite well with the electrical units removed anyway. I did for a couple of months recently. Is your idle speed ok warmed up? If not it’s the big screw on top of the left hand carb you should be adjusting.
Will have a look....idle a bit on the slow side for an auto, but only just been sorted by a specialist, so reluctantly to mess.
You need to go mobile....but as a mechanic or comedian??? I know the opinion of "specialists " ...but as he rebuilt balanced and tuned the bus just before our holiday, I may chuck it back his way.
OK here’s a minor detail. I just returned from France where it was pretty hot. I found that my idle was running too slow although I set off with it fine. I like to have it so the transmission is just starting to bite with my foot off the accelerator, so I turned the big screw a fraction anti clockwise. This worked well until I arrived back in Hull. Now it needs adjusting back for cooler weather.
Had a look at both sides of the carb this morning.....both butterflies seem to be closed when cold...the left more than the right. Don't know if that is significant. Sent from my SM-J330FN using Tapatalk
If you now press the accelerator pedal does the flap close like the other one? This is the point when the chokes reset themselves for a cold start. Nice clean carbs BTW.
Just been out pressed accelerator pedal, right hand butterfly does appear to have closed fully...however still no increase in the revs on starting.
On the fast idle adjust.. just in case .. winding the lower nut so it goes up the thread makes idle faster... you need to undo the top one first.. 7mm spanner i think...but it should really be set with the carb off to leave a gap of about .6mm on the bottom butterfly on biggest cam as said above and that's after setting it to .1mm ish with it off the idle cam using the idle adjust screw . The speed is then set using the big volume screw on top the left carb... but you need the revs to be low enough for the vacuum advance to be working for it all to be working together ... which you cant really do when the chokes on .. and the carbs need to be balanced. Itinerant aircooled does a good guide if you have all the right stuff in place and ignore the dual vacuum stuff Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
