I was thinking to get the cables into the pop-top base, seal them with a grommet, and then just feed them towards the back where they can pop out into the fresh air again (the base has a gap between it and the metal roof) and then down through the roof into the headbanger using one of those double cable waterproof entry gland boxes. I know they are a bit big and ugly for what they are, but they're designed for the job and also it will be out of sight at the back behind the pop top base. At least that way the hole can be drilled easily from the top of the roof into the headbanger without chasing around hunting for cables. Also it's easily accessible to fix if anything goes wrong and it leaks a bit initially. The alternative to the chunky white double cable entry jobbie is to use two 90° stainless steel / chrome PG9 cable glands such as @sANDYbAY used in his blog write-up - but everywhere I look online seems to be out of the PG9 size right now. Any thoughts Mike on what cabling I need to go from the controller to the leisure battery? Is standard twin core electrical cable right for the job, with an inline 10A fuse? (I only have the 10A controller for one 100w panel... My fridge is gas so I don't have to run that from the battery, and in the unlikely event I opt for a 2nd panel in the future I will upgrade the controller then) My leisure battery has the additional terminals so I can get those ring connector things to attach the wiring, same as the propex. The laptop and USB probing camera would be good - if only to see what Devon did to my roof with the tin-opener when they fitted the pop-top!
Thanks Si, much obliged. Looked on ebay for it, is this what you mean? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253435739868 Mostly seems to come from Germany or Hong Kong.
I wouldn't use domestic twin core to wire it to the battery, something like this would be better https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/70/category/114
The cables that came with mine are big double insulated ones I ran them across the roof in through the bellows then cable tied to the scissor prop leaving a loop so it folds up with the roof then down behind the wardrobe But I do like the cable track that @1973daisey used I might have to get some
Yeah it looks the business doesn’t it? I figure if he uses it to keep lift cables tidy in elevator shafts, it’ll probably do the trick for my pop top roof!
Sure Iv got some left I'll look tomoz at work I'm currently knee deep in sanding prima dust Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You don’t hang around mate, do you? Looking forward to seeing all your hard work on Daisy at techenders
I just used 90° plumbing elbows, I’d bought two of the pukka entry gland boxes and they were huge (and ugly). They’d be ok on the top of a big motorhome. I cut discs of rubber to fit inside the elbows and with a small hole in the centre it waterproofed it all. I also just used solar cable from my controller down to the leisure battery.
The key bit is a 100 watt controller with MPPT should push over 8 amps into the battery so downstream ideally the cables should be bigger with the fuse at the battery end as thats where the current flows from when you have a short. Bigger wire is lower loss. Depending on the controller you might also benefit from a fuse that end too as the MPPT may not like short circuits. Also its a good idea to be able to have some accesible isolator ( removable fuse or connector or switch) for the solar array and/or MPPT controller as when the sun is shining you have a powerful source of 12 volts that does not stop when you disconnect the batteries. I popped a cheap controller when I shorted its output and the 200 watt solar cells popped a PCB track when I shorted the output by mistake on a sunny day. Fortunately the blackened bit was non-fatal and soldered up easily. And the closer you push a fuse to blowing the hotter it gets until it melts the plastic fuse holder. So the MPPT controller might get the fuse frying so it suddenly conks out without any real fault one sunny day.
My set up will be one 100w solar panel and a 10A MPPT controller, So the cable from the controller to the leisure battery has to be capable of handling at least 10A, with a 10A fuse in line, and preferably another fuse in the cables from the panels to the MPPT controller - is this what you're saying? Or just a fuse at the battery end. Sorry, I'm not great with electrics and don't want to melt my van!! I've just spent ages searching the forum's plethora of Solar threads trying to find where I saw @theBusmonkey recommending an inline fuse to someone. @Razzyh maybe? Ah, yep, got it.... https://www.sunshinesolar.co.uk/pro...SECRIMP.html?gclid=COz8nY6iotMCFegK0wodk-UPgQ Does that look like the jobbie? So many questions!
Did you manage to check if you'd got some of that lovely snake chain stuff at work Si? If not, I'll get some off fleabay. Hope Daisy's paint, prima, and sanding is going okay. Inspirational job
Just got in from sanding again just have a shower I'll pop out as got my van today !! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's the one Sarah. Get a couple. Shopping around may find them cheaper but these are really robust and easy to fit. It fits the 4mm solar positive cable nicely. Panel, 4mm cable (in line fuse), controller, 4mm cable (in line fuse), battery. Buy 4mm solar cable (it's cheap enough from e-bay and is more than thick enough to handle the current from the panel to the battery in the length you'll run it). There will be negligible volt drop from the panel to the controller and on to the battery so long as you keep the cable length less than 20 feet lol. Not a problem with what you're doing but I worked it out with demountable panels in mind. Here's the stuff I bought for the 100w panel I stuck on the T3 and it's very similar to what I used on Chip all those years ago 20amp fuses are small enough to protect the cable which is rated much higher in the short length you'll need, (I reckon 7m will be enough for both + and - runs total, but double check with a bit of string), and big enough for you to upgrade to 200w if you decide to in the future. If you deffo won't be upgrading, 10amp fuses will do but it makes no difference really with the current and cable thickness/length you'll be working with. Putting the fuses in-line makes it really easy to disconnect the panel from the battery if you ever need to get the battery out. Make sure the fuse holder is easily accessible and remember to carry a spare! They're tiny and easy to lose! (ask me how I know!!!) We wish you a sunny TE
Thanks Neil Hopefully I'll get Clem back from being welded before long and I'll get my measuring string out for the cable. Are you and Mel going to be at TE or are you still out seeing the world? (Not jealous, not jealous at all )
Thanks John. If I do succeed, it’ll definitely be a team effort! And i’m confident we will Are you coming?
Yes I am going to be there on Friday but have to leave fairly early on Saturday as I am going away for a 3 month cycle trip on the Sunday.
Wow, sounds like an adventure! I’m planning to get there mid afternoon on Friday, so should catch up with you at some point before you head off. If not, I hope the roads are free of potholes and your blisters are small
