Subaru conversion start

good pictures, really helpful to see it. Richard did my loom (RJES) which should make it easier but everystep I'm learning.

Are you happy with your heater placement?, I was thinking under the van might lose some heat in winter. Theres a lot of space in the engine bay so I'm thinking about going that route with some lagged neoprene (if its better) heater hose pipes.

PG

 

yes happy with heater placement, it was warm enough the other day when i drove it. putting it in the engine bay is a very long run to the windscreen is more likely to cool down on the way. unless you have a massive heater core and bog fan but then you may end up overcooling the engine. it will be free flowing through that rad at all times remember.

not sure what RJES suggest for the temp gauge but i assume he uses the standard temp sender signal from the ecu, i just ran 7 core trailer cable to the front and used it for the temp signal to a normal VDO gauge. then used the other wires for the immob light and check engine light plus have a couple spare

 

so whats the problem with the 003 that doesn't make them ideal?

 

rjes never developed his parts to fit the 003 but the biggest problem beyond compatibility is that 003 parts are NLA, it makes no sense to pursue 003 box.

I did a lot of research, wasn't a decision I wanted to make but the good news is (so far) it bolts straight in. Haven't run it yet or got linkage setup but it appears good.

 

You can still get parts for 003 from the states.

 

True but places like cog box won't touch them. Stripping down and rebuilding/repair well beyond me and there's lots more 010 about to swap in.
More importantly (to me anyway) all RJES development was using a 010 and later box which has a totally different kick down setup (vacuum vs mechanical I think).

I'm sure though it must be possible to make something work if that's the road you want to go, it was just my reasons thats all.

Anyway here's a tip, don't order anything near black friday, it takes forever to be delivered :-(

 

Decided to tackle the oil leaks I have(no the irony isn't lost on me) it's leaking from the back of the left hand head and also the oil pump.

When I did the oil change before I put fully synthetic oil in, which I don't think it liked it very much, from a leaky point of view.

So seals ordered and today I took the oil pump off, which means removing the timing belt.

I also took off the left hand cam pulley to make sure that wasn't leaking as I had a lot of oil around the rear cover. Looks dry so I think it is just where oil has tracked.

Looks like the crank seal was leaking.

 

Presume your not attempting to get it completely dry are you?

 

Looking good mate - im guessing from the pics its coming from the crank seal, will be dry once its off and replaced
My engine looks poorley at the moment, waiting for parts from germany and the US

 

Hoping to be completely dry

 

Ordered some seals for the back of the head from Subaru and getting them tomorrow. Need to sort all new tensioners out as I should have replaced them before, but I was being cheap!!

 

Dont blame you for being cheap - ive shelled out £££'s in the last couple of weeks on parts! Not cheap to recon these engines but atleast the parts are high quality.
Which subaru parts supplier did you use?

 

I have used import car parts for some stuff and the bits they dont do I have gone to Subaru main dealer in Lincoln

 

Oil pump removed last night, cleaned up tonight and reinstalled pump with new sealant, O ring and front crankshaft oil seal.

Hopefully it won't leak now!!

 

Got some leaks to find on my engine aswell before it goes in, but was coming round to the idea of leaving them for the stealth look, as wherever it's left parked up, it will mark its spot just like an original lawn mower engine!

 

Scooby or VW engine. All My engine problems started when trying to stop leaks

 

@pkrboo oil pump. Cool job. I did my belts and water pump but that's as far as I felt comfortable to go, what you did in a night took me about 2 weeks !!

Still waiting on pipes so no progress which is a bit irritating.

 

If you did the water pump you might aswell have done the oil pump too.

@Razzyh, @Kruger is going scooby.

@Kruger , try and get the leaks fixed before it goes in.

you also need to look into an anti belt jump cover on the crankshaft pulley as autos didn't get them I don't think. May mean a change of oil pump as it mounts to bosses in the pump.

 

I've bought the small belt guide, hoping the bosses will be there or be blanked and just need drilling through, been an expensive month as buying plenty of bits, but so far just piled them up for now!

 

Hi Pkrboo,
I'm a bit stuck, RJES rad is proving a PITA to install. Mines got lugs coming out the side, like locating dowels, which extend further than the holes for the bolts so when I offer the rad up to bolt it in these dowels protude too far and knock against the main chassis bar the rad is supposed to bolt into i.e I can't locate into the holes to bolt it up.
His stuff is normally spot on so am i missing something? I think it must bolt up this was as once the rad is in place you can't get behind the drop down so it must be in place to start. Won't be back on it until Monday now. Small delay, a bit of a pain, ASH (advanced silicone hoses) still not shipped my coolant hoses and they don't know seem to know whats going on/don't return calls, second time around, lately they are abysmal.
Couple of pics of rad if you can help,

cheers
PG