Hiya guys - I'm interested in the jacking points thread above. I was planning on jacking my truck up and then leaving it on axle stands for a long time. I'm guessing having read above that axle stands under the main cross beams would be the safest bet? Cheers, john
The diffuser outlet (Dash Vent cover) can be pulled out and reinserted easily and by some brilliance of German Engineering is almost exactly the same size as a 440ml can of beer, remove them from both sides and insert two beers at the start of your journey, open the vent up and have a nicely chilled beer on arrival, handy when you don't have a decent cooler/fridge. OK not the most technical but I didn't find this out for about 5 years, and its great when pulling into a campsite on a hot day and having chilled one while watching people struggle to erect their tents. Info was passed on to me by someone at the Vintage VW Festival years ago.
Hi, can I ask a question please, this picture below is the engine in a van I am looking at, from what I read this is a type4 engine is that correct? it is in a 2 litre Riviera Thanks Elizabeth x (sorry for asking daft questions, but that's me...)
Yes. That's a type 4. I can't see it that we'll on the phone, but someone will be along to give you a assessment of it soon.
Late Late fuel injection model which appears to be all there from what can be seen. No missing bits of plastic like the alternator adj port and the fan grill. That big fan on top of everything is the heater blower and one of the heater levers in the cab will switch it on and off when the engine is running/ignition on. Edit, I can't quite see if the foam seal that runs all around the engine between the cooling tin and bodywork is in place. It should be! otherwise the engine runs the risk of overheating.
I'd like to add that if you're thinking of buying a van make sure you buy a tin top and that it is stock height. Then it won't leak and you'll be able to drive it onto ramps so you can work under it... which you will be doing lol.
First job is to put the proper distributor on it, second job is to put the correct air filter box on it that has a warm air feed. I can't see the crankcase breather? ;-)
I looked through my outer sill and I can see all the other sills are missing in the space above the belly pan.. Thats 200 pounds worth of panels plus labour to replace..
Electrical snags - top advice from an ancient mechanic. With any annoying electrical faults first switch off and remove key. Go to fuse panel close to steering wheel and remove cover. Check all fuses still complete then spin each fuse individually a couple of times to ensure a good contact. This has saved me twice - now spin the fuses annually to keep the contacts free of any corrosion. Oh yes, clean your main battery contacts as well to get rid of corrosion and apply a little smear of Vaseline to keep them pristine.
This is an amazing thread. Now to run off and find out what a belly pan is and hope I don't have one . . . . Update: Phew!
What are the con of belly pans if fitted to be easy to remove? (so that you can still work on the underside of your van if need be)
Pro's Tidy look below. Protection for pipe runs etc from bouncing objects and going over rough ground. Full body strength when connected properly. Insulation for heating system. Con's Trap water and can hide rust. Time consuming to do minor repairs to underneath. Regulates ground clearance to roughly one overall height.