Topic: inner screen (Read 297 times)

dog-god · « **on:** Fri 12/03/10, 19:49 »

ok so finally had a bit of time to spare on the beast this week, cleaned up and sprayed the inner screen panel

right, found out that the inner panel butts up against the front of the air box(not behind as i have it at the moment) and is plug welded on
i take it that the top edge of the front panel will line up with the top edge of the inner panel, so wherever i line this up is where the front panel will sit???????

Fish · « **Reply #1 on:** Fri 12/03/10, 19:58 »

mate your in a bit of a pickle there! i will get larry to explain if hes online.

Fish · « **Reply #2 on:** Fri 12/03/10, 20:06 »

heres his infinite wisdom..

If he hasn't measured the windscreen aperture, then he is fliped.
The whole panel is fitted around the windscreen aperture as you can't trust the repro panels
You need to tack the inner panel on then fit the dash top section and then trial fit the front panel, then the windscreen and when that's OK, you have your front panel location

dog-god · « **Reply #3 on:** Fri 12/03/10, 20:10 »

thought it wouldn't be easy

the og inner panel and upper section of the front had been bodged by the po, so i stripped it all off so i could make sure its done properly!
lots of work for me on sunday then!
any handy hints-apart from buy a bus with less wrong with it

Fish · « **Reply #4 on:** Fri 12/03/10, 23:58 »

Quote from: dog on Fri 12/03/10, 20:10

any handy hints-apart from buy a bus with less wrong with it

you just got the best advice out there for this predicament

Retro Custom · « **Reply #5 on:** Sat 13/03/10, 00:07 »

Larry here.

You may still be able to get away with the panel being in the location it is now. The important thing is that the front dash section fits the 10mm nut fixing holes in the dash itself and butts up against the inner front panel OK. If that's fine (you may need to release the panel where it is welded to the A pillars to get the necessary clearance), then the only other thing you need to worry about is whether the top lip of the front inner panel is high enough for you to weld the windscreen aperture lip of the front panel itself and the inner panel lip together, and still have the windscreen aperture the correct size. I hope this makes sense.

If the two aperture lips don't meet, and the whole windscreen aperture is not correct then you will have big gaps around the windscreen once you fit the rubbers, especially in the corners which will leak like a git and ruin all your handiwork in no time.

The major rule with doing front panel replacement is to measure the windscreen aperture 5 times and then cut once. It also helps if you make a well fitting cardboard template of the windscreen aperture before you remove the front panel or inner panel then you have your factory location. You can mark reference points on the roof and locate them to the template so the template is in the correct position. If you don't do this and just chop the front panel off with no measurements, then you have to find the correct location through trial and error. This is why a lot of buses you see at shows which have had the front panel replaced have gaps at the bottom corners of the windscreen rubbers 'cos they didn't take the time to record the stock factory locations.

Also, the corner curves of the repro front panels are miles off, so I normally cut them and bend them to the correct profile using the template and then re-weld. This ensures a leak free windscreen seal fit.

If you need any more advice, let me know. There is a step by step on how I've done a front panel in the past on my website in the projects section - its the green Bay.

Birdy · « **Reply #6 on:** Sat 13/03/10, 11:09 »

If l was you Dog, I'd buy a bus with less wrong with it. ha ha ha ha.

dog-god · « **Reply #7 on:** Sat 13/03/10, 12:42 »

and then paint it Jaffa like yours eh birdy

cheers larry, thats some good advice there, i'll cheeck out the one you did then have a play tomorrow, see how close i can get it!

dog-god · « **Reply #8 on:** Sun 14/03/10, 09:50 »

just checked out your work on the green bay, looks easy

quick question though,
what are these bits, my inner screen panel doesn't have them

and will my repro panel need cutting and filling in like you did, is this down to the non perfect fit?

Retro Custom · « **Reply #9 on:** Tue 16/03/10, 19:57 »

Sorry, been busy, so only just seen your post.

Not sure what you mean by those bits your inner panel doesn't have as there is no picture! I'm guessing that you're talking about these..?

They are the original dash fixing brackets where the front of the dash attaches to the inner panel. Your inner panel should come with loads of right angle tabs. I just ditch these and drill out the spotwelds on the original panel brackets and then reuse them as they are far better and you can get all the holes to line up with little effort, as opposed to lining every tab up which comes with the new inner panel.

If you don't have these brackets on the old panel, then your inner panel must have been replaced at some point of your bus' life and the original brackets got discarded with the original inner panel.

With regards cutting the side of the front panel, you might not need to do this. On other panel replacements, they go on fine. I just did that to make sure the door gaps are perfect all round because the fold was in the wrong place and the offside edge of the panel I was using fell too short when the panel was located in the airbox vent aperture squarely. When you offer up your front panel, it should snap into place around the A pillars when centrally aligned with the airbox vent, but if it doesn't then you may need to cut the edge and relocate slightly, but it depends how fussy you are at getting everything looking factory. I've explained the reason for doing the cut in more detail on this thread..

http://thelatebay.com/index.php/topic,2045.20.html

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Larry

dog-god · « **Reply #10 on:** Tue 16/03/10, 20:06 »

aah that explains that,
the inner panel was replaced by the po, they'd left the right angle tabs taped onto the new inner panel (see pic), welded it on and then welded in a repair section to the top of the front panel, guess i'm going to need these tabs then! its schofields tape used to secure the tabs, so at least it should be a half decent panel!

Retro Custom · « **Reply #11 on:** Tue 16/03/10, 20:10 »

Every inner panel I have used has been genuine VW - even the ones bought from Schofield. They don't come with original style fixing brackets so I assume the brackets have their own part number and are a separate part entirely.

dog-god · « **Reply #12 on:** Tue 16/03/10, 20:34 »

yeah, this one has the vw sticker on it, got some inner screen repair panels that obviously weren't vw parts, they got sent straight back as they didn't even nearly fit!
i'll refit the dash and try to mark off where tha tabs go.....more fun and games!

cheers for the help mate

dog-god · « **Reply #13 on:** Mon 29/03/10, 16:25 »

tacked the inner panel in, then i put the dash in, it doesn't fit properly, do i need to fettle the inner panel to fit the dash?
it fits perfectly in the middle but gaps up at either side

ignore the dodgy repairs to the dash, its the po's handywork, just using it as a guide for fitting!

Technohippy · « **Reply #14 on:** Mon 29/03/10, 18:11 »

please paint your dash a dark colour, you will never thank me for saying it if you do, but if you don't you will always hate yourself for ignoring it on every sunny day you drive your van

dog-god · « **Reply #15 on:** Mon 29/03/10, 20:27 »

i'm going to, already read your comments on them in the past. just sprayed it to stop it rusting, lots of repairs to do on it too

:

Author Topic: inner screen (Read 297 times)

dog-god

inner screen

Fish

Re: inner screen

Fish

Re: inner screen

dog-god

Re: inner screen

Fish

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Retro Custom

Re: inner screen

Birdy

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dog-god

Re: inner screen

dog-god

Re: inner screen

Retro Custom

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dog-god

Re: inner screen

Retro Custom

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dog-god

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dog-god

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Technohippy

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dog-god

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